rating: 9/10
the bar room at the modern has one of the most creative menus in new york, featuring anything from hot dogs with caviar to a concord grape, peanut butter, and celery sundae. but the modern doesn’t do novelty just for the sake of novelty—it executes the unorthodox well, and the tartare is no exception.
easily my favorite tartare in new york so far, the modern does what i appreciate most in fine dining, which is combine the opposite or unlikely. in this case, it’s the old, traditional tartare with the new, trending green-goddess-style gribiche sauce. a tartare is versatile in that it’s a mixed dish; chop anything up finely enough, and you can add it in there. but very few restaurants actually embrace that versatility, opting for the traditional preparation instead. while there’s nothing wrong with the classics, the modernity of this dish is what made it stellar. the dressing melded with the texture of the tartare to create a buttery-smooth, silky mouth feel, and coat the meat with a rich-yet-acidic flavor that other tartares could only hope to emulate.
i have not even begun to get into the brilliance of the crispy potatoes the tartare is served with. by far my favorite accompaniment for a steak tartare ever, the potatoes provide a crispy, salty juxtaposition the the tender, bright tartare, and adding substance to the surprisingly light meat dish. unlike other sides, the crispy potatoes are not an afterthought, but a true partner to the tartare. if you’re going to have a fine-dining experience from a two michelin star chef for a reasonable price, make it this one.
also recommended: caviar hot dogs, tomato soup, tarte flambé, key lime cheesecake
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