rating: 8.5/10
is it cheating to include a carpaccio entry on a steak tartare review blog? maybe, but it would feel wrong to exclude such a gorgeous dish from the mellow, vibey soso’s located in soho. while carpaccio is a more versatile, less tradition-bound raw beef dish than a tartare, it shares the modularity central to a tartare in the sense that each individual ingredient chosen is prominent and necessary to the overall experience.
soso’s beef carpaccio features heaps of freshly grated pecorino, a generous drizzling of calabrian chili relish, and a garnish of fried capers. by focusing on three central ingredients with complex flavor profiles, soso’s carpaccio delivers a powerful and unique tasting experience: nutty and sharp from the pecorino, spicy and savory from the calabrian chili, and sour and briny from the capers. it’s a combination i’ve never experienced in a carpaccio or tartare, but it’s cohesive and, most importantly, delicious. served alongside a soft, pan-toasted sourdough, this innovative carpaccio pushes the boundaries of what is expected from raw beef dishes while embracing the italian ingredients with which carpaccio shares its cultural heritage. thus, soso’s carpaccio is refreshing and interesting without being overcomplicated.
also recommended: charred cabbage, madeleines
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